PASTA CARBONARA

     For a dish that is relatively easy to make, carbonara engenders a lot of debate. Its universal ingredients are pasta, eggs, hard cheese such as pecorino or parmesan, but there are almost endless variations, each with its devoted -- sometimes rabid – supporters. Its origin is somewhat obscure, although it is commonly believed to be named after the coal workers on Lazio, in the region of Lazio, Italy the administrative district that includes Rome, the city with which the dish is most famously associated. I have had carbonara dishes several times in Rome, and in various other cities n Europe and the Americas. My personal experience is certainly not exhaustive, but as far as I’m concerned, the best carbonara to be had is made in restaurants in Paris(!). Why? Because, unlike the Italians, many chefs in Paris like to add cream, which seems to smooth out the pungeance of the cheese and adds a special richness to the sauce. To my Italian friends who would vehemently disagree, I say “Cosa ti rende cosi intelligente?”

     But the variation doesn’t end there. First, there is the matter of eggs. Some prefer to use only the yolks, while others use whole eggs. Some chefs, especially in Europe, will add an egg yolk to place raw atop each serving, with the expectation that it will be cooked by the heat of the rest of the dishPersonally, I prefer the wishy-washy approach, so I use a combination. Then there’s the meat. The only rule is that it needs to come from the pig and be amenable to being cut into small bits. Pancetta and similar Italian hams are commonly used, as are lardons of bacon. The latter have the advantage of generating their own fat, making the addition of butter or olive oil unnecessary.  (Optionally, you can also add some shrimp or shredded chicken for more flavor variation.  Just don't let go of the pig).  All that’s left is salt and pepper, although you’re always welcome to add additional herbs and spices like dried or finely chopped basil or oregano if your tastes lean that way. A final note: Carbonara is a sauce, and can be coupled with pretty much any pasta that you can fit on a fork or spoon. But it’s far and away most commonly used with long stringy pastas like spaghetti, linguine, or fettucine.  As always, dried pastas are okay, but fresh, especially homemade, is better.

Dave’s Pasta Carbonara

Ingredients

1 lb long stringy pasta

4 whole large eggs. Beaten

2 egg yolks (alternatively, a single egg yolk may be place atop each individual serving and stirred into the dish by the recipient)

1 cup grated fresh hard Italian cheese such as parmesan, romano, reggiano, or pecorino

9-12 oz cooked bacon, cut into lardons about ¼” or less square(or an equal amount of diced thin Italian ham such as pancetta, sautéed.

3 tbs bacon grease (alternatively, 3 tbs of butter or olive

1 tsp salt (optional)

Ample black pepper

3-4 oz heavy cream

Directions

Bring 3 qts water to boil and cook pasta until barely beyond al dente. (I find that adding a tablespoon of olive oil to the pasta water helps prevent sticking).

Prepare the pork (preferably in a cast iron skillet)

To the egg mixture, add all other ingredients and blend thoroughly by hand.

Drain the pasta and replace on stone over very low heat. Slowly add the sauce mixture, beating continuously but gently until all ingredients are incorporated together.

Serve immediately with additional grated cheese for optional garnish.w long they’ve been at it, and what got them to where they are.